I receive a lot of “help me” calls from rug cleaners and rug owners on rugs that are buckling. They want to know what to do.
And my answer is usually… it depends.
That’s because there are a number of reasons why a rug is buckling on someone. Some of these reasons are correctable. Others are not.
Here is the list of different causes of buckling:
Weaving Characteristics
No hand woven rug is perfectly symmetrical. There will always be a little bit of variance in the width and length, and some fluctuation in the weaving tension throughout the rug itself.
A city rug (woven in rug factories in weaving cities) will of course have more quality control than rugs woven by tribal weavers. I personally prefer the tribal rugs because they have more character and personality.
That said, in some tribal weaving centers, especially in areas that are war-torn like Afghanistan, the consistency can vary beyond being an interesting weaving characteristic to being seen as a weaving flaw in some extreme cases:
Buckling from weaving tension changes, or width or length variations, are not unique to Afghanistan. You see examples of this in all weaving countries. And in most cases they are seen as unique characteristics of a rug’s personality. Like a few great laugh lines on a smiling face, or dimples, they are what make the rug have character.
And as with those lines or dimples, you can’t just take a steam iron and make those go away. There is no “Rug Botox” to use.
Sometimes a weaver – especially if the loom is a nomadic one – will not know the rug has a “buckling” problem until after it is completed and cut off the loom. In some cases a rug manufacturer will apply a sizing to the rug (similar to starch) to try to make the rug stiffer than it would naturally be.
The problem with sizing is that it will wash out, and it may be difficult to have it re-applied. So if you are buying a rug, or you are getting ready to clean a rug, you want to look closely at the shape of the rug and if you see any evidence of problems on the BACK side.

Creases can be clearly seen on the back of this Afghan rug. These are causing buckling on the front.
Sometimes a rug can be stretched to help it lay flatter, but this is a strenuous process that may damage the rug.
In these cases you need to think about weaving variations as no different than one of your feet being a bit larger than the other. Think of what you would need to do to try to make them perfectly equal, and then apply that though to a rug, on the work that would be needed to make a side that may be an inch longer than the opposite one even.
It is often impossible to do. So your expectations need to be realistic, and if the variations are too much, then pass on purchasing the rug.
Material Backings
With embroidery, needlepoint, and hooked rugs, the buckling is often due to the construction especially if that construction includes a heavy material backing.
This type of weaving, though often very elegant, can also often not be perfectly symmetrical. And when you have two independent pieces – the hand crafted needlework and the material backing – that are loosely stitch to one another, this can create some buckling and waves.
Hand crafted custom rugs using different fabrics and fibers can also lead to buckling, especially along the seams of there the pieces are put together.
Seam tape can split under foot traffic, or with age, or from cleaning (especially if the individual piece are made of different fibers and may react differently during the cleaning process. Some fibers swell when wet, others condense. Some are stronger when wet, others are weaker. Some absorb more moisture and dry slowly, others dry quick. And these variances can split a seam if you are not careful.
Tufted Rugs (Latexed Material Backing)
Tufted rugs are the rugs you see with latex holding it together. Latex over time deteriorates and crumbles away, so often it is covered up with material to hide this kind of ugliness:
Rugs are meant to be on a HARD floor, and not over soft wall-to-wall carpet. But, sometimes a soft floor is your only option.
While woven rugs (rugs you can see the design on the back of the rug same as the front) have some “give” to flex when over a soft floor, a tufted rug is not so forgiving.
Heavy furniture on top of a rug that is over a carpeted floor can stretch the fibers of a woven rug, and in worst cases create tears and holes. And with tufted rugs, which have a latex backing holding them together, they can create waves in the rug you won’t be able to get out.
With these rugs, once they have been stretched from heavy furniture, and the latex backing cracks and bends, it’s damaged and will be very difficult to make flat again. It’s like when an elastic band gets over stretched, you can’t get it back to its original shape.
With woven rugs, you have a better chance of washing and reshaping a rug that has gotten buckles from furniture. And to protect BOTH types of rugs, short of putting them on top of a hard floor instead, you can seek out a stiff pad to place between the rug and the carpeted floor.
If your rug is tending to want to move and buckle even when it’s on a hard floor, then often a good rug pad will keep you from having any safety risks of people tripping on it. (Plus pads are “shock absorbers” for rugs and keep them from wearing from foot traffic as fast, and they also tend to deter bugs from wanting to find a home under your wool rugs. I personally love Durahold pad for rugs on hard floors.)
Edge Finishes (By Machine or By Hand)
Sometimes the ends or sides of a rug are finished a bit too tightly, or overdone, and this can create curling of a rug.
The curling may be immediate, or only evident when the rug gets wet or damp. The level of buckling depends on how the fibers react to water. Some fibers get tighter when wet, and loosen when dry. This is especially evident on oriental rugs that are tightly woven, and the cotton foundation fibers tighten up when wet. (Think about your clothes when you take them out of the washer. Your cotton items are smaller and tighter, and your wool items are looser and stretchy. Most woven rugs are wool face fibers twisted around cotton foundation warps and wefts, so “wet” they can create some buckling that will go away when dry.)
If a hand woven wool rug is perfectly flat when dry, but curls when it is wet, then it will regain it’s proper shape when dry. Don’t panic.
An exception is Navajo and other American Indian weavings. Often the outside wrapping threads are not pre-washed before being used in the final weaving, and these strands may shrink a bit during cleaning, which can give the illusion that the overall rug has shrunk, when it is in reality just the outside cords.
On the very first cleaning of a Navajo rug, the outside cord will need to be adjusted to make up for the shrinking of the cords, and future washes will not be a problem as far as buckling. (There are other concerns when handling American Indian textiles, from potential dye migration to wool fuzzing, that require an expert’s touch when cleaning. These rugs can be quite valuable, so always seek out someone with expertise in handling these pieces, as well as any investment textile or rug.)
Floods and Extraction Equipment
When rugs are exposed to flood water for extended periods of time, buckling can result from the absorption of the water in the cotton foundation fibers. In most cases, this buckling will be correctable. Though you need to follow the right steps to make sure you thoroughly clean and decontaminate any rugs exposed to flood waters. Click here => for tips on handling rugs from floods.
Heavy extraction equipment (Rover and Xtreme Extractor) though excellent at pulling out the water, can sometimes create some buckling on looser woven rugs that may or may not be correctable. Whether it’s this type of equipment, or other extracting wands, it is better on the rug to extract from the BACK of the rug to try to avoid any marks or buckles from equipment. When using a wand it can help to have someone stand on the edge you are extracting to help hold the rug flat while doing the work.
Most rug cleaning facilities have roller or spinner wringers to remove water, which removes the buckling risk. Especially with the rollers, which tend to flatten out the rug smoothly for the drying process. But if extraction is your water removal method, you just want to make sure you are not too aggressive in this step.
Hanging Rugs To Dry
There are a couple negatives to hanging rugs up to dry if you do not have a professional climate controlled drying tower like the large rug washing plants have.
Hanging up a rather wet rug can bleed the dyes into the fringe. It can also create browning and discoloring of the fringe.
It can also, from the weight of the water, create a creasing of the rug that is difficult to remove, especially if the rug is tufted.
Some ways to lessen the risks are to try to get as much water out of the rug before hanging. If you do not have large water removal equipment, you can use a Water Claw in addition to your portable or truck mount wand to boost your extracting. The Rover, with its teflon head is excellent at removing water from heftier rugs without leaving any marks (even if you have to extract from the front side). Just make sure the rug is not too fragile.
Instead of hanging rugs on narrow planks, you can place a PVC pipe around the planks so that you can have it curved enough to help prevent creasing. You can also hang the rugs at at angle so there will not be a clean line of where the rug was bent to hang, like this:
We dry our rugs out flat to avoid these risks, but most rug cleaning companies do not have the space to do this. So this helps if you have a mini-rack system that you are using.
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These are the most common reasons behind rug buckling, and the situations where something can be done about it… or can’t.
Happy rug cleaning!
Lisa
P.S. I’m super excited because I’m finally ready to announce my return to the “rug training circuit” with a program that will be the best educational experience in our industry for crafting experts in the field of rug care. If you love rugs, and want to learn directly from me, then make sure I have your name on my Rug Chick list by entering your name and email in the “Rug Disasters Report Request” box up in the top right corner of this website. I’ll be picking a small number of companies in the coming weeks from my list to work with this year, so if you are interested in getting serious about rug cleaning, plug your name in up top! =)















Hi Lisa, great article.
I’ve taken the liberty of using your mail forward section and sent the article of to Raja & Frank Devine of Devine Rug Care, Dee Why, NSW, Australia.
Take care,
Shorty.
Great article Lisa I relly thank you for all your tips.
Thank you Shorty! =)
Thank you Ron for taking the time to post your thanks, I really appreciate it. I can SEE how many people read the threads… but only a few take the time to let me know if they liked it, so it’s great to hear from you. =)
Hi Lisa
Thanks for all the great information. Maybe you can ad also fine tabriz 50 raj or 70 raj made with a very white warp that is a blend of cotton and sinthetic fibers(plastic!) white fringes that are easy to clean with no problem of yellowing or browning.
The problem appears when these rugs are at homes with under floor heating system and the heat makes the fine tabriz rug buckle. few years ago I stretched one of them taken back to the rug shop by the customer. And today I washed another one with the same problem. Do you want to see the photos?
Thanks
jamshid Madrid
I cleand a rug a week ago I seem to hve caused it to brown and buckle, this is the first time ths has happend. The rug tag said it was from Egypt, it is bergundy & tan in color, can you give many any advice on how to correct my problem.
Thanks Lisa.
Please send me a couple photos of the rug, and EXACTLY how you cleaned it. I need some photos of the full front view, and then a shot of the corner folded over so I can see the BACK of the rug compared to the front, and how the ends and side are finished. Then photos of the buckling areas. You can send them to rugchick@gmail.com and put RUGS in the subject line. I’ll see if I have any suggestions for you.
Hi Jamshid,
I’ve seen some Afghan rugs with a cotton and flax thread mix, which makes the ends buckle badly – it may be similar to what you are seeing on the Tabriz rugs. I’m curious why they would use this. I’d love to see some photos – please send me anything you want to share at rugchick@gmail.com and thank you for reading and posting comments. I appreciate you taking the time. Thank you! – Lisa
Always learn something new from your articles.
Thanks Lisa.
Lisa,
Thank you for some great info on area rugs. It is extremely helpful to those of us that are trying to grab our share of this great market. See you soon.
Bill Pope
Excellent information. I had seen several of those reasons for curling or ripples but your article added some great new information as well. Thanks.
I’am so glad to have found your website and the excellent articles you write.
Thanks
Hey – THANK YOU everyone for your posts. I really appreciate you taking the time to read and actually comment. =)
Lisa
We recently cleaned a tufted rug that after cleaning has a slight buckled ridge on the middle of one side only. The owner puts a heavy marble table on it in her home. It laid completely flat before we immersion cleaned it. We are in the process of trying to weight this ridge down by using some boards with a heavy fan on top. I got this idea from your rug secrets book. Do you have any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Hi Lisa,
We want a hand made Persian rug for our hall runner and have seen that some are wool backed, wool is not as rigid as cotton is it? So am I right in worrying that a wool backed runner may buckle up all the time? If this concern is justified could it be rectified by using a rug gripper mat?
Aren’t these old rugs fantastic, I love ‘em
Appreciate any advice,
John
Hello John, Thank you for posting your questions. Usually the “buckling” in wool on wool rugs (wool pile wrapped around wool warps and wefts) is inherent in that construction. When wool pile is knotted around cotton, it will keep more square, and lay flatter – this is because cotton can be spun evenly and will keep its shape. Wool has a more uneven spin, so this is harder to keep flat unless it is an exceptionally finely woven wool on wool rug.
Yes, a pad can help some times, if the buckling is slight. However, if it is edge or field buckling that is sometimes seen in rugs from Afghanistan, that cannot be helped with a pad, because this is often flaws in the weaving process magnified with being wool on wool. On a runner with frequent traffic, I would look for wool face fibers, but cotton fringe. I hope that helps.
Lisa